Wednesday, May 19, 2010

Birthday in Morocco


My birthday in Morocco was one of the better birthdays I have had in a few years and I know will be quite a memorable one. I spent the weekend before celebrating with some of my fellow volunteers who also have May birthdays, in Marrakech. It is a place volunteers go to party and have a good time as it is one of the main tourists destinations in Morocco and there is a lot of fun to be had there.

We stayed in a cheaply priced but very nice hotel, did some shopping, and ate food that we don’t always have access to.

I spent more money than I needed to on food. But that is the lure of the big city you have so many choices of foods you often miss. . Some of us decided to have pizza for lunch. Pizza Hut to be exact. I realized it was worth the money the second I took the first bite. The chewy, rubbery cheese, and crispy pepperoni transported me back home. Later that night after a couple beers at pub some people were talking about going for sushi. I originally wanted to opt out since I had splurged on the pizza but then I decided to treat myself for my birthday. It was my first sushi in eight months and again it was very worth the money.

The next day which was my actual birthday I traveled home. Later that evening my family said they wanted to celebrate with me. I waited for the kids to get home and when they did they brought out a cake for me complete with candles. They also had my favorite Moroccan treat, a sugary pastry like thing called schbeckya. A couple of family friends were over who wanted to help make my birthday special. I got a few gifts from everyone which I didn’t expect, but made me feel even more loved. It was short but sweet party that I won’t soon forget.

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Letting myself go

One of my reasons for wanting to join Peace Corps was so that I would be able to let myself go for a while. Not in a bad way, but in more of a liberating way. I looked forward to being able to wear clothes that were comfortable, not necessarily in with the latest fashion trends. I wanted to be free of vanity for a while and just see clothes as a way to not be naked.

I got placed in a country makes personal appearance a high priority. But I couldn’t be more different. Not that I am walking around with mud on my face, but I defiantly leave the house with the mentality that “there’s no one to impress.” It feels good and yes it feels liberating.

I like to use the excuse that I don’t have a lot of money for the reason that I don’t buy nice clothes. To be honest I like the feeling of not getting everything I want. It has made me very resourceful and more thankful for the few things I do have. Even the 2 or 3 times I have bought clothes here in Morocco I don’t find myself wearing them as much as I thought I would. I always resort back to the same few cozy items day after day. I think of this when I see a top I think is really cute. Plus I don’t need to be making myself any more attractive to Moroccan men. Just the fact that I am a foreigner is enough to give me all the unwanted attention a person can handle. Even when I haven’t showered in days and I am wearing muddy boots somehow they still want to yell catcalls at me.

Slowly you begin to let go of the thought “what will people think of me?” I am different here no matter what I do or wear so it’s something I just cant escape. I felt self conscious the first few times I covered my hair with a scarf. Which is exactly what a Moroccan woman would feel if they did not cover their hair with a scarf in public. Sometimes the irony is so laughable. But then I keep in mind that I would only feel strange covering my hair if I was in America, since American women don’t do that. However, I cover my hair here sometimes to blend in, to be anonymous. But my jeans, Michigan State sweatshirt, and New Balance sneakers can always give me away. But I feel there is pure magic in those few things. Slipping into that green and white hoodie I feel utterly myself. I feel strong, safe, and confident.

When some things are so normal to you but so abnormal to the people around you, you question if what you are doing is right. Again the irony comes in here and sometimes you are so set in your own norms you blow right past the questions and stares. For example, during the rainy season here I got tired of getting my shoes wet everyday and getting the back of my pants all muddy so I decided to invest in a pair of rubber rain boots. My host family who helped me buy them assumed I wanted tall, leather, stylish ones, but as I pointed to the rubber sole of my shoe I hoped they’d get the picture. After much convincing and continuous pointing to anything rubber I finally found what I was looking for. Turns out women don’t wear rubber rain boots here in Morocco much and wearing them apparently makes you look like a farmer. And in the city you don’t see people wearing them except farmers who come into town to sell their vegetables on market day.

I could have cared less if I looked like a farmer, I now had dry shoes and clean pants. While I watched Moroccans dance around puddles and piles of mud in quite possibly the worst rain shoes on the planet I splashed right through them.

I wear less makeup that I ever did. Before all of this the most I might do without makeup on is run to Target and dodge anyone I might see there that I knew. But here I have learned that people are going to look at me the same no matter what and that they will most likely be far less judgmental. And the thing is I don’t necessarily believe that any American would judge me differently if I were not wearing mascara but it was something that I had to find out by coming to a different place being forced to find a more natural beauty. (Here in Peace Corps we call that Peace Corps pretty)

Friday, May 7, 2010

Friends from strangers

One of the things that I love most about being here in Morocco is finding people who hardly know me but are so kind and generous to me as if I was their own family. Never in my life have I felt hospitality to this degree from people who are nearly strangers.

A few weeks ago I started tutor a 15-year-old girl who is the daughter of my Moroccan mothers friend. Every Wednesday I get together with Fadwa to teach her English and week by week she is opening up more and more to me. Each week I walk over to Fadwa’s sisters house which is near mine. After studying English for about an hour Fadwa’s sister, Iman, always offers me tea and sweets. I have increasingly looked forward to spending time with Iman as she is one of the hospitable people I am talking about.

At 22 years old Iman has already been married for five years. Yes you’ve done the math right that means she was married at 17. She was arranged by her family with a man 15 years her senior. She is a generous, understanding, and polite young woman. She is able to communicate clearly with me using her five year old high school English. I have been very impressed that after so long not using what she had learned she usually can talk to me without skipping a beat. I can express myself to her and she can always understand.

But Iman is not only able to understand my words but my feelings as well. Last week we talked a little bit about religion, a subject I try to steer clear of normally, but with some people I know I am safe talking about it. When you are able to have conversations with people who are open-minded and understanding you can find out things that other people don’t take the time to ask.

This week I wanted to ask Iman for advice about how to deal with the unwanted attention I get everyday. Moroccan women deal with this everyday of their lives and in talking to them about it I know it will make me feel less alone. She was supportive of me and told me that I was right in ignoring all the attention that makes me uncomfortable. It’s nice to be able to vent to someone here who really understands what I am going through.

Iman gave me something of hers as a gift after only knowing me for three weeks. It is a small wood carved box. I told her that every time I look at it I will think of her forever. At the end of the day I like to think of moments like these to help push the negative moments far from my mind. The relationships that I form and the special moments that I share are truly going to be the things that are going to stay with me for a lifetime.